A New Era of "Body by Fisher"
An interview with Fred Fisher by Pam Hunter
As I child of the 50s poring over the great magazines of the day, Life, Look and Post, I was drawn to the cool elegance of "Body by Fisher" ads. It is this Fisher family that spawned Fred Fisher, one of my few true idols in the wine world
For good reason, you may be saying, "Fred who?" This is because after settling in a remote area of the Mayacamas Mountains that separates the Napa and Sonoma valleys, Fred did a reasonably effective job of sticking pretty much to himself. He harvested timber from which he made his family home and Turnbull-designed winery, carved a vineyard out of a fairly inhospitable mountainside and worked tirelessly to produce wines that are up to his standard.
We all have family histories. Yours, with its heritage of craftsmanship, seems to have played a powerful role in your life.
I've always had the greatest respect for the brothers and in particular, my grandfather. He had zero pretensions (with an 8th grade education) and a lot of quiet class. His word was gold. The brothers met several times a week for lunch (at the top of the Fisher Building in Detroit ), but eschewed any publicity. Indeed, there is only one photo taken of them all together (in the rain with great uncle Fred holding the shovel at the start of the construction of the building).
One reflection of this would be my dad's favorite criticism of businessmen in the press: namely, so-and-so has "ink disease." But another belief of my Dad was the common understanding "from shirt sleeves to shirt sleeves in three generations." I of course am that third generation. My hope as a result has always been to see if I couldn't start anew as the new first.
What have you contributed to the legacy?
Essentially nothing other than proving that we can move on to a new world with different demands and opportunities and, in that world, we can simply try to do our best.
Is it reasonable to compare Body by Fisher and wine by Fisher?
From what I have read, I believe that the reputation of Fisher Body Corporation was established beyond any expectation by the time (about 1923, some 15 years after the start) Mr. McManus (McManus, John & Adams) came up with the idea of representing automobile craftsmanship with the Napoleonic Coach emblem. We chose to do the same after only five years of winemaking. But our challenge has much similarity: namely, our challenge is to earn for our family's Coach Insignia the same reputation for true craftsmanship in winemaking in the 21 st century as it represented in the 20 th century for the making of automobiles.
Many of your colleagues in the wine world seem to enjoy the limelight. I've always had the sense that you don't.
I realize that publicity and public attention can be a real positive. But it also can lead to a negative. Frankly, when I can feel honestly deserving, I take great pleasure in being out front. Like everyone, I live for it. But I am critical of myself-indeed too critical for my own good.
There's a self-congratulatory spirit to winemaking these days that probably wasn't present when you started the winery 30-plus years ago. What do you think about that?
I agree. There is a self-aggrandizing spirit in the industry that I believe is very superficial in value. For me the dream is to find a truly distinctive unique value in our own particular terroir. This is the holy grail that justifes our unending work.
You seem to think that work is its own reward and provides its own dignity, not such a popular notion today as in your grandparents' era. How do you see your work at Fisher Vineyards?
By the time I arrived at Fisher Vineyards, I had developed not only a love for wine, but also a realization that my urge was to make my own thing on my own. I started with what my wife came to call our cabin and, with her presence, I realized the great opportunity we had to work the land.
Yes-I have always felt work was its own reward; I learned at an early age to respect highly literally anybody who was hard working. At Fisher Vineyards, we have found work to be a huge challenge; we/I have not yet reached the pinnacle of success that is my ambition and I wonder if I ever will. But I will keep trying and each day I am more aware of how lucky I am to have a degree of health that allows me to continue to do just that.
Unlike some founders in the wine industry, you seem to have considered the prospect of having the next generation to return to join the family business with a certain antipathy.. Your eldest daughter Whitney was chosen by Mia Klein to be your winemaker. Now, your son Rob has left a promising career in investment banking to join you. How is this working?
As our family has grown up, I have seen several instances in which the younger generation has demonstrated integrity and loyalty that is truly rare in that it places truth above personal gain. I came to understand there is possibly the greatest potential in working with family. I also am growing older and coming to realize there will be an end point for me in the not distant future. So having Whitney and Rob taking on essential roles in the conduct of our winemaking efforts will turn out to be what might be called beautifully well-timed. The ultimate choice has to be their own so we shall see.
You have a lot of education behind the team on the mountain, Princeton for you and Whitney. Duke for Rob. And, Juelle is a former investement banker with an impressive academic background. How does this contribute to the quality of wine and life?
Education on its own merit is key. This involves opening as well as informing the mind and can come through informal as well as formal education. The fact that our team members all have worked in school or in business both in-State and out-of-State has been of great value not only in understanding our business but also in communicating with people in general. Thus they are capable and in fact are developing true skills in the craftsmanship of winemaking and at the same time, they are communicating very effectively with people in general.
What was it like to sell wine from Fisher Vineyards in the early days? What's it like today?
In the early '80's, we were one of a relatively small number of new California wines from the Napa and Sonoma Valley appellations. Along with others, we received an easy welcome. With what one might call the maturing of the industry and with the continuing addition of many newcomers, without a doubt the competitive level has increased significantly.
More than ever quality of wine and personal connection with the market has become all important. These factors may actually work in our favor over the long-run. Indeed, with the consolidation of the distributor tier of the market and with the opening of direct shipping across the United States, Fisher Vineyards may be at the brink of a new era that highly values craftsmanship and personal connection.
How do you feel about reviews?
Reviews offer the least costly and potentially effective method of publicity. However, they also offer a real risk of negative publicity. Further, all review sources are by no means desirable in that many appear to be lacking in professional skill and/or in selectivity.
We continue to believe in Parker and Tanzer as good risks. We also respect the significance of the Spectator
What do you think about your wines today?
Our 2003 Chardonnays are absolutely stellar. Our 2002 Cameron
Red Wine priced at $50 is right on the mark in quality and price in
today's market. Our 2001 Coach Insignia Cabernet at $65) is late to market,
is aging well and may even be getting better; I hope we are successful
in presenting the wine as a really nice "ready" wine in comparison
to the 2002's that are coming into the market. Our 2001 Lamb Vineyard
Cabernet and 2001 Wedding Vineyard Cabernet at $125 are priced right
with their limited quantity to contribute positively to the market's overall
respect for Fisher. 
